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Spend six days on Spirit of the West Adventures' Whales and Wilderness Expedition paddling one of the most amazing kayak routes in North America. This tour explores the best of the wildlife and culturally rich Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait areas, which are world-renowned destinations for scenic paddling and wildlife.
You will set up your tent in a new campsite each night and spend one night at the remote floating Paddlers’ Inn. There are so many beautiful places to camp in that you will be hard-pressed to choose a favorite campsite. Each one has unique attributes - either tucked in among towering forests or overlooking wildlife-rich waters.
This is a true expedition-style trip, which means that you will move from camp to camp each day. You will also spend one night in style and comfort at the Paddler’s Inn Lodge.
Spirit of the West Adventures will do their best to make sure that you will be comfortable and will feel at home on your tour. They use high-quality expedition-style tents and thermarests. Most campsites can accommodate the solo and double tent preferences of the group. If you prefer your own tent, please just let them know when reserving your tour.
Please note that tent sites are typically accessed by forest trails that may be uneven and by traversing some roots and rocks. Guests will be generally responsible for carrying their own gear at camps, but please ask one of your guides if you require assistance.
You will begin or end your expedition at the Paddler’s Inn, in one of the more remote corners on the British Columbia coast. The warm hospitality of the McMorran family will ensure that your stay is both comfortable and relaxing. This is the perfect way to start or finish the wonderful journey. Onsite massage, showers, and trails are available at the Paddlers Inn.
The Broughton Archipelago Marine Park is the largest marine park in British Columbia. The campsites in this area are spread throughout a collection of undeveloped islands and islets near the mouth of Knight Inlet off of northern Vancouver Island.
In the larger waterways of Johnstone Strait and Blackfish Sound further south, the stunning landscapes continue to impress with views as far as the eye can see. These more open areas are where the larger marine mammals such as humpback and orca are more frequently seen.
When travelling through these areas, Spirit of the West Adventures seeks out sites in secluded bays, rocky bluffs, or forest clearings. While they always aim to find sites that provide a feeling of solitude, there may be times (on occasion) when the group encounters other paddlers throughout the expedition.
Campsites will be chosen by their guides based on considerations such as weather and sea state forecasts, group size, and route options.
There are many camping areas along your route. Most sites around the Johnstone Strait are well established, with pit toilets and tent platforms. These sites can be popular in the peak of summer, but your guides will use their insider knowledge to find the best and quietest spots.
Camping areas at the north end of the Broughton Archipelago are wilderness sites with fewer or no facilities. Your guides will carry a portable toilet which will be placed in a private nook at each of these backcountry back sites. You will practice leave no trace camping and Spirit of the West Adventures encourage you to refresh yourself on the seven principles before arrival.
On this particular tour, your first or last night (depending on which direction your tour travels to) will be spent at the Paddler’s Inn, a rustic floating kayak lodge deep in the Broughton Archipelago.
The Paddlers Inn is a rustic eco-lodge nestled in Simoom Sound on the shorelines of Gilford Island between Vancouver Island and mainland BC. It was started by a local duo named Bruce and Josee McMorran and has been stewarded by them since 1990.
Set against a spectacular backdrop of towering bluffs and tranquil water, it is the perfect place to begin or end your adventure.
Comprised of a handful of floating buildings repurposed from old logging camps in the area, it provides a welcoming atmosphere with access to a central kitchen area within the main lodge, comfortable rooms, hot showers, a sauna, and a covered outdoor lounge area.
Handwashing stations will be set up at each lunch spot and campsite. During your one-night stay at the Paddlers’ Inn, you will have access to hot showers and flushing toilets.
Throughout the rest of the expedition, there will be limited freshwater accessible in the areas that you will travel through. Many guests find wet wipes to be a great alternative for personal hygiene. If you would like to freshen up, salt water is also perfectly fine to use.
To keep the impacts to a minimum, Spirit of the West Adventures asks that you please only bring environmentally friendly and biodegradable soaps and shampoo. Bathroom facilities are not common in most wilderness areas, although some sites do have pit toilets. They also carry a portable toilet system that they typically rely on in most cases.
They understand that not everyone is aware of wilderness toilet etiquette and will be there to help. Your guides will always designate a spot that is ideal for ensuring everyone’s privacy. They are very familiar with making sure that guests feel comfortable and informed. Please feel free to ask them any questions that you might have, before or during your tour.
After years of exploring the Broughton Archipelago and Johnstone Strait, Spirit of the West Adventures is confident that the team has put together a great trip allowing you to explore well beyond the reach of the typical sea kayaking circuit.
You will thoroughly enjoy this one-way journey through the uncrowded northern Broughton Archipelago, exploring areas off the beaten path and spending a night at the remote Paddlers Inn for an extra special treat.
You will spend four days exploring the Broughton Archipelago and then spend your last two days enjoying world-renowned Blackfish Sound and Johnstone Strait - the realm of the whales.
Wildlife that you may see on this trip includes:
You will begin the journey from northern Vancouver Island, where you will meet your guides and fellow kayakers. These tours alternate traveling North to South and South to North through the islands, but all tours cover the same incredible area.
Some of the star attractions on this expedition are the killer and humpback whales. Getting a chance to paddle in their habitat is a thrill of a lifetime. Johnstone Strait is quite simply the best place on earth to kayak with orca and humpback whales in the wild.
Most of British Columbia’s 300 northern resident and killer whales return to these waters to feed, sleep, play, and rub their bodies on the pebble beaches of world-famous Robson Bight. The humpback population in this area is thriving and growing every year, with over 97 individual humpbacks known to frequent this particular region.
Enter the acoustic world of the orcas, as you travel with an underwater hydrophone. When you are in the range of the orcas, you will be able to listen to their eerily beautiful calls and echolocating clicks from a deck-mounted speaker.
The Whales and Wilderness Expedition can be suitable for paddlers of all skill levels and outdoor experience. This six-day tour is one of the longer trips that Spirit of the West Adventures offers and they recommend at the very least being comfortable in a wilderness environment and having a strong sense of adventure!
Your guides will always ensure that you are provided with clear direction, paddling techniques, and all sorts of tips to help you get the most out of your trip with them.
Distance covered and time spent paddling will vary depending on each particular trip, group size, weather forecasts, sea conditions, and the intended destination each day. Spirit of the West Adventures always establishes a pace that is pleasant and feasible for all, with ample breaks to stretch your legs and explore the area.
Generally, the group will cover a time and distance of four to six hours / six to eight nautical miles a day on the expedition-style tours, not including meals and stretch breaks. The first and last days of a tour will involve less time on the water due to water taxi travel and tour introduction / orientation.
This is a one-way expedition traveling either northwards or southwards between Paddler’s Inn (Simoom Sound) and Alder Bay.
Your group will be carrying everything you need in your kayaks. There will be no support crew, stash points, or supply drops. For this reason, it is important to pack well and pack light.
The expeditions require everyone to work together as a team. You will need to help keep camp tidy, and to assist with loading, carrying, and unloading kayaks at the beginning and end of every day.
Each day on the water, you can expect to be paddling for five to six hours and cover eight to 10 nautical miles per day. You may encounter wind, swell, currents, crossings, and technical landings.
A fleet of good-quality fiberglass kayaks will join your expedition. Typically, your group will have at least two double kayaks and the rest will be singles. You can expect to rotate through them and paddle different boats throughout your trip.
Risk assessment and safety protocols are a big part of wilderness travel. Listen to the safety briefings given by your guides and follow the precautions put in place to keep everyone safe.
Cell service is patchy and you will not have access to electricity or charging stations throughout your trip. Please bring extra batteries or battery packs for phones and cameras.
On Day 1 of your trip, you will meet your water taxi driver in Alder Bay on Vancouver Island (approximately a five to five and a half-hour drive by car north of Victoria or four hours north of Nanaimo). Please arrive 15 minutes early to allow time to park, unload, and carry your luggage down to the launching spot.
Return time can depend on weather and travel conditions but is typically between 12:00 to 14:00. Spirit of the West Adventures will try their best to get you back on time for your onward travels or to explore more of what Vancouver Island has to offer.
This expedition alternates traveling North to South and South to North through the islands, but both versions cover the same incredible area. It simply means that you will either spend your first or last night at the Paddler’s Inn eco-lodge or at the private campsite on Hanson Island in the Johnstone Strait.
The South to North route will start with a short van shuttle from Alder Bay to the launch location on the first day. The last day will end with a water taxi ride from Paddlers Inn to Alder Bay. The itinerary sample below describes the route from North to South.
Welcome to your adventure! At 11:30, you will transfer yourself and your equipment aboard the water taxi and journey out to the unique Paddler’s Inn Eco-lodge.
Once you arrive at the floating lodge, you will meet your hosts Bruce and Josée, get comfortable, and explore the surroundings. And if time and weather allow, you will get out for your first introductory paddle after a kayak briefing from your guides before you enjoy your first dinner together with the group.
After a delicious breakfast, you will pack the kayaks and head off on the expedition. Your first day will be spent exploring the islands of the Broughton Archipelago and enjoying the stunning views and wildlife while enroute to camp for the night.
There are many options to paddle amongst the enchanting islands of the Broughton Archipelago. This region is a network of forested islands and protected passageways that offers both scenic paddling as well as intriguing history.
Several beaches and campsites show evidence of those who have come before you - the First Nations people.
The tour often visits the home of local legend, Billy Proctor, and his collection of historical west coast treasures. Spending time listening to Billy’s stories is a great way to get a sense of what life on the west coast was like and how it is changing.
Each day, you will keep your eyes and ears open for the marine mammals that frequent the area, including orcas, humpbacks, minke whales, dolphins, and porpoises.
For lunch breaks, you will enjoy picnics on various beaches. These breaks will also give you the opportunity to stretch your legs, discover the creatures that live in the intertidal zone, and explore the lush coastal rainforests with old-growth cedar trees.
You will stay at some of the most stunning wilderness campsites in the region. Enjoy locally-inspired dinners on the beaches, sitting around bonfires sharing the highlights of your day with the crew, before crawling into your tent for a cozy night under the stars.
This will be your last day to enjoy the marine environment of Johnstone Strait and the Broughton Archipelago. On the previous day, you will paddle to Spirit of the West Adventures’ private campsite on Hanson Island to spend your last night under the stars. You will paddle back to Bauza Cove and then take a van shuttle back to Alder Bay from 12:00 - 14:00.
This tour will take you through Johnstone Strait and the islands of the Broughton Archipelago Provincial Marine Park, a network of forested islands and protected passageways that offers both scenic paddling as well as an intriguing history.
The tour will take you back in time as you visit the ancient village site of Mamaliliculla and learn about the Kwakwaka’wakw First Nations people.
You will be on the lookout for the many marine mammals, including orcas, humpbacks, minke whales, dolphins, porpoise, and sea lions that travel through these waters. You will also keep watch for the eagles, deer, black bears, and all of the incredible wildlife that tends to stick closer to shore.
The diversity of both paddling, environment, and wildlife, from tiny intertidal life up to humpback and orca whales, makes this a trip not to be missed.
Spirit of the West Adventures loves food and they want to show you how good cooking in the outdoors can be! Your multi-talented guides will cook fresh, hearty food made with locally-sourced ingredients wherever possible. You can expect hearty and healthy meals with plenty of tasty fruits and veggies available, as well as appetizers and locally baked goods.
Food is an essential part of any camping trip and wow, camping food has come a long way. Move over hot dogs and canned beans, because fresh green salad, local and responsibly sourced lingcod, and roasted baby potatoes are ready and waiting to be served.
Top it off with locally baked treats or fresh fruit skewers with chocolate drizzle for dessert and you get the picture! It'll be a pleasure to share these tasty meals with you while savoring some of the most beautiful scenery around.
Spirit of the West Adventures likes to say, “We can’t control the weather or the wildlife, but we can control the food!” On their tours, you can look forward to hearty, healthy, fresh, and satisfying food. While specific meals vary based on tour, please see a sample of some of their typical options below.
Breakfasts are warm and hearty. Breakfasts served may include:
Lunches are simple and delectable, most often eaten on one of the coast’s many pocket-beaches after a morning of paddling. They may include:
Appetizers are always a welcome treat at the end of a day of paddling. Appetizers may include:
Dinners are full of flavor, filling, and variety. There is always a sweet treat to follow. Dinners may include:
Sample menu items are based on the expedition tour menus. Basecamp tour offerings will vary slightly.
Snacks are also available for quick, on the water nourishment. Your guides will have trail mix, fruit leathers, granola bars, sweet and savory treats (such as jerky or pepperoni), as well as chocolate available for snacking. You are also welcome to bring along your favorite snacks for while you are kayaking.
Spirit of the West Adventures are very fortunate to have world-class coffee roasters on their little island, importing ethically produced and sustainable coffee. Helene and Peter of Aroma Roasters supply them with freshly roasted, fair trade, organic, shade-grown beans produced by a women’s cooperative in Mexico or Peru.
Fruit juice, black and herbal teas, hot chocolate, and coffee are also all provided for your drinking pleasure. You are welcome to bring wine, beer, and spirits for enjoying responsibly with your meals.
Have dietary needs? Spirit of the West Adventures are happy to accommodate many dietary restrictions, if possible in their wilderness camp environment. However, dietary restrictions add additional complexity and costs to preparing for your tour. Please see below for some of the dietary restrictions they can accommodate and the associated costs for substitutions.
75 USD fee:
No additional cost:
If you have dietary restrictions or allergies not listed above, please send an inquiry to discuss if Spirit of the West Adventures are able to accommodate your needs and any additional charges. They take great pride and pleasure in serving you the best food they can for your adventure. Happy eating!
Campbell River Airport
124 km
Transfer not provided
Vancouver International Airport
293 km
Transfer not provided
Please book your flight to arrive at Vancouver International Airport (YVR) or Campbell River Airport (YBL). Airport transfer is not included in the price. Campbell River Airport (YBL) is a two and a half to three-hour drive to Alder Bay, where you will meet your guides. There is no public transportation to this area.
From there, you will need to go to Port Hardy. From Port Hardy, you can rent a car or take a 40-minute taxi ride (approximately 100 CAD) to Alder Bay. You can also book your flight to arrive at Nanaimo (YCD), Comox (YQQ), or Campbell River (YBL) and drive from there. Car rentals are available in all of these airports.
For destinations in and around Port Hardy including Alder Bay, Telegraph Cove, Port McNeill, and area. Spirit of the West Adventures recommends contacting the taxi in advance to reserve your transfer.
On Day 1 of your trip, you will meet your guide team in Alder Bay on Vancouver Island (approximately a five to five and a half-hour drive by car north of Victoria or four hours north of Nanaimo).
Depending on which direction your tour date travels, you will either hop on a water taxi up to Paddlers’ Inn or paddle out of Bauza Cove (Spirit of the West Adventures’ guides will provide a shuttle to the launch point from Alder Bay).
Please arrive in Alder Bay 15 minutes early to allow time to unload, carry your luggage down to the dock, and arrange parking (if necessary) to leave your vehicle for the duration of your tour.
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